'93 Duster 3.0L V6 and A604 Automatic Transmission(4sp with OverDrive)
The only problem that I had was in pulling off the water pump, the bolts on the top (seen in the view with the cover removed) could not be completely removed because they hit on the bottom of the intake. I just loosened them and was able to wiggle the water pump out. Also note the pump fits on an oringed piece of pipe (interference fit), so it may be hard to pull off. The trans end of the pipe has the lower radiator hose hooked to it also with an o-ringed fitting.
The process in a nutshell was removed the hood and disconnected all the
plugs to the engine and transmission wiring harness. I pulled the battery and battery tray. I drained the fluids then removed the radiator (just wanted to be safe). I then disconnected the A/C from the engine block (so I didn't have to worry about freon leaking out) ((currently low anyway and does not work I expect it's the rusty metal hose lines)). I couldn't easily get the Power steering fittings loose so I unbolted it from the block also. From there I disconnected the sway bar and lower ball joint and removed the drive shafts (found this trick on the list). By doing it this way I didn't have to mess with PS fluid or getting it re-aligned. I removed the motor mounts and trans mount and pulled the engine/trans out with a hoist.
Once I had the engine trans out I replaced the water pump and timing belt, changed spark plugs and removed and reinstalled the oil pan and valve covers (oil leak fix). I checked the oil pan for buildup (expected) but found it was amazingly clean, same with the valve train. Since everything was clean I just put on new valve cover gaskets (old ones were hard) and used RTV on the oil pan (like OEM).
On the transmission I had to swap some of the hoses and simple things like the dipstick and torque converter. The FM unit had the speedometer drive plug but the original did not. I talked to a trans shop about this and they said I could just swap my (tail housing?)part without the hole with the FM part with the speedometer drive hole. I didn't because I wanted to have the new seals and the speedo hole was plugged. The torque converter fit right in and was a 10" unit. I had marked the flex plate and was able to easily put the TC back on the way that it came off. I then put everything back together in roughly the reverse order.
Also of note the new water pump had cast impellers where the original had steel fins that were welded on and bent up. Which is better? I have no clue, but I went the cheap route and got mine from AutoZone (lifetime warranty) and had to swap over the back plate.
I had no gear puller so I applied heat from a propane torch to the end of the drive shaft for about 20 seconds then blew compressed air into the crankshaft bolt hole and the vibration damper came right off by hand.
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New Forward Motion Transmission
Engine Compartment(Side View)
Drivers Side Brake Assembly(Shows Transmission Mounting Bolts)
Disconnected Sway Bar and Lower Ball Joint(Must be removed to get drive shaft out)
Back of Engine in Car(Shows O2 Sensor)
Lifting The Motor Using Factory Lift Points
Back of Motor(Out of Car)
Front of Motor(Out of Car)
Accessory Side of Motor With Belts Removed(Timing Belt Inspection Plate Removed)
Fully Exposed Timing Belt and Water Pump
Transmission Next to Motor
Stock and New Transmission (Front Sides)
Both Transmissions(Can See in the Bell)
Bottom End of Motor(100K+ Miles)
Valve Cover Off of Back Head(Exposed Valve Train)
Engine Compartment(After Swap)
Engine Compartment(After Swap)
Some pix of the car in front of the Hoover Dam in Columbus, Ohio.
These pictures are posted with permission from Mr. Robert Hassler.
You may not use these pictures with out written permission.
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